Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Back to basics.
She needs re-crate training. Remove the crate for a few days, then bring it back full of wonderful treats and toys. Do the usual crate training techniques, making sure you go at her pace.
Something most likely spoked her that first night and she realised if she cries and makes a fuss then she gets attention and gets to come out of her crate.
It needs to be that wonderful nice place to be again.
My dog doesnt even need telling to go in on a night, its simple for him, he is tired, so he goes to his bed. That said, on a night we dont shut the door any more, usually, as he likes to cuddle up to the other dog, who just has a dog bed.If your dog is not seeking attention, not pestering for food, walks or anything else then it is most likely that he is happy and content with what he is getting! If you are worried that he isnt getting enough stimulation then encourage him to play more.
Also it is better for the owner to initiate the play and activites, than for the dog to request them.
From your message it seems like you have a wonderful content youngster, who I am very jealous of! EnjoyShe is not being aggressive/bullying/attention seeking, she is purely claiming her place in the pack, which is above the other smaller, less energetic dogs. If she shoves them out of the way to get attention, or does it and looks at you then it could be attention seeking, but if she simply head butts them out of the way so she can sit next to the higher members of the pack, or in her faviourt place then she is simply taking her place. As long as she doesnt begin these dominating behaviours towards the people around her or become forceful in her actions then I wouldnt worry. If the other dogs are properly socialised then they will understand what is going on and accept it or stand up for themselves. Sounds like they have accepted it.
That said you can take your role as the pack leader and insist that she isn’t so forwards with her actions, and that she doesnt force the others to move. By this I simpily mean remove her from her place when she displays the behaviour and encourage the others to go back, shouting or punishment wont help, it will most likely just confuse all the dogs, and even make them fearful of her being around.Is the dog going to the trainer or is the trainer working with your family.
Your dog is doing what it thinks it right! He is protecting your family and the house and is worked up and confused when he is restrained. The best thing would be to have him in a crate or behind a gate when people come to the house. Let him know that you are dealing with it, and ignor him until he calms down.
If your trainer is not offering advice and support with how to fix these common problems and aiding you in altering your dogs behaviour then it is not the correct sort of training. Ideally you need a qualified, registered dog behaviourist, who will come to your house and help you to change your dog, as it is your behaviour and reactions which will cause your dog to act differently, if that makes sense 😀The only reason that she would see her crate as a toilet is if it is too big. Ideally her crate should be just big enough for her to streach out, and have room for her water bowl. This may seem cruel but its the only way for her to treat it as her den, and she shouldnt be left in it for extended periods anyway. Night time use and a few hours during the day is fine.
If this is only a night time problem then it could be a case of she has to go when she has to go… Maybe a nice walk on an evening after her tea, so she has time to do what she needs before bed.back to basics with the poor little pooch.
We recently got a rescue puppy, 10 months old, and wouldnt allow anyone to come near him. It’s not easy, and it’s not a quick fix but heres the basics of the method which is working (slowly)
First off if your dog shows signs of fear or aggresion your moving too fast! Go really slow!
Find your dogs favourite treat, the best thing he loves, could be chicken, liver, pouch dog food… What ever you can find that he will go crazy for.
Find an artical on clicker training and do as it says using this high value treat.
Take poor little pooch out of the front door. If he is calm then click and treat, even if there are no people. We want coming out of the house to be good and calm. Have a little walk around, when ever he focuses on you click and treat. But try keep it calm and away from people.
Slowly incorperate having people in the distance, far in the distance, before he gets scared and worked up click and treat and walk him away. This is where it gets really slow. Even if your dog doesnt bark or get upset in any way do not try push him any further at first. Once he shows signs of fear then you could be knocked back quite a bit.
Slowly just build it up more and more.
We are also using a crate in the house with our little guy, and having visitors round, they do not even look at him. He stays in his crate until he is nice and calm then we click and treat. After a few more weeks of this we will start letting him out after a few clicks and treats to see how he does. Any fear will knock us back though, so take things nice and steady. (If you use a crate also look up correct way to crate train, as it needs to be totally positive and will take time.)
Unfortunatly there are no quick fixes for fearful dogs, they often have missed crutial socialisation stages and trying to change them even at 8 or 9 months can be really difficult. But once you have sorted it out you will have a much more happy and confident friend.To be totally honest… we have a lifetime contract with barkbusters, and have used them twice… The techniques we were given seem cruel and only increase the anxiety that our dog demonstrated. We now use a local dog trainer, and she is fantastic. Research the trainer and find out about the techiques, anything which may make your dog scared will only make him worse.
With our dog aggresive dog we were told to throw water bombs infront of him, well it worked whist he was on a lead and at a distance in a fasion. He no longer pulled 2 get to the other dog or showed any behaviour except fear that a water bomb would come flying at him at the presence of another dog. If the other dog got close then he was so much worse… Now using different more pleasent techiques and the use of a pack of socialised dogs my pooch can run off lead at the park with any dog, and we have even got a second dog into the house.Ive tried reading through as much of this information as I can… then looked at the dates on some of it and thought that maybe some of the information is out of date…
We have recently taken on a spaniel mix (cocker and springer) who has a number of behavioural issues. We are looking at what dry food would be best for him, and feel that Burns would be a great option, the down side being the price!
Our first dog is on chappies, vet and behaviourist recommended, due to his highly sensitive stomach and allergies to dust mites found on dry food. Have to say whilst he has been on it he rearly has lose stools and flare ups of reactions. Plus it is fairly cheap and seems to keep him happy and content.
http://www.burnspet.co.uk/dog/chicken_brown_rice.aspDue to the behaviours you have said I would say it is most likely you have an insecure dog.
Insecure dogs do tend to mount other dogs or even people or objects as a way to openly dominate/own them. This is not a sign of wanting to mate or anything sexual, this is most often just a simple I’m not overly sure who is in charge so I will be!
Again when your dog feels as thought it cannot move, due to being in a confined space or is not allowed these other dogs are making yours feel threatened. Youngsters would be the worse, as typically well socialised adults would know how your dog is feeling due to body language, and would behave in a more suitable manner, whilst small puppies would not understand, but also would be much less threatening.
I would suggest creating a safe environemt where your dog can go to where others cannot follow. Do other activities such as hide and seek with toys and treats to help develop confidence.I have heard of a few bad experiences feeding live mealworms, and since I have never fed them with their heads attached Im not sure how often it can happen but is something that quite a few reptile keepers I know tend to stick by.
Mealworms are very hard to digest and are the larva stage of a beetle that has a very nasty bite… It has been reported that a mealworm that has been eaten and not killed while doing so has changed from the larva stage into a beetle and eaten its way back out of the animal. Trying to look into it at if this can happen but Ive always been to paranoid and tend to feed them decapitated…if the tank is at the correct temperature and health is all ok then it is most likely that they are either full or are pregnant. Provide a small container/house that is moist for them to lay their eggs, just incase.
The best thing to do is keep a close eye on their weight, and if you are worried take them to a reputable vet, or back to where you got them from for more information.
Just out of interest what are you feeding them?The size of Chihuahua’s can vary very much, a friend once had a male (with papers and trusted heritage) who was similar size to a westie. Don’t worry and just accept your dog for who he is. Also typically males do tend to be bigger than females.
A crate is ment to be a safe and relaxing place for you dog.
First move it to a new position, add plenty of toys, blankets and other safe soft cuddley things that your dog will love. Leave the door open and let him wonder in and out. Put water, treats and meals in the crate and dont shut the door for quite some time.
When you do eventually shut the door makesure Beau is tired out and ready to sleep. Shut the door and if Beau is happy and stays laid down re-open the door and praise. If Beau shows anxiety go back to the leaving the door open, and give him more time.
Slowly build up time the door stays shut, but remember this is a safe, warm, comfortable little house for your dog to have treats and rest in, not somewhere for Beau to live or be placed when exercise is needed.First off have him checked over by a vet to make sure there is nothing causing him pain that is making him react like this.
Then always feed them seperate, that should help.
You need to make your dog realise you are the source of its food, not someone who will take it away. Instead of putting the food in the bowl and letting him eat, place the bowl on the floor. Have the food in a jug or seperate bowl. Let his sniff the bowl and wait until he steps back, as soon as he does place a small amount in the bowl. Once he has eaten this and steps back add some more. Keep repeating this every day and he will learn you provide the food and he has to show you respect to earn it.
Hope this helpsI really would not recommend only feeding her tinned food once a day, maybe make that part of her diet though. Give her wet food in the morning, in the hope she will eat that then, and leave some dry food down so she can eat during the day if she chooses to.
Shame about the food no longer being produced.
If you do decided to change her over do so very gradually.